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If you are using the RAW Power Photos Extension (or any extension, for that matter), the extension must send a JPEG (not a HEIF or TIFF) back to Photos. So, if you then export a TIFF from Photos, you will be getting a TIFF made from a JPEG (this is mentioned in the article cited above). Your best bet is to use the Export button in the RAW Power extension, which will make a TIFF that you can store on your local hard disk.
Sadly, the Photos referenced file feature is just as poorly implemented as the one in iPhoto. iPhoto also couldn’t handle moving files to a new drive. It’s rather shocking.
One crazy idea – what if you name the new drive the same as the old drive, and copy the files to the exact same locations on the new drive, might that work?
I suggest doing this:
1) Copy the files from old to new
2) Eject the old
3) Rename the new drive = the old driveThose steps are important otherwise, you might get a “-2” or something appended invisibly to the drive name.
That’s not what I would expect either. If you want to send me a couple of images you can.
Email
support@gentlemencoders.comand I can send you an upload link (I don’t want to put the link in the forum, which is public)
Auto Enhance rarely modifies the fields in RAW Processing, except when images are overexposed or underexposed. It tends to use things in Tone, Enhance, and Curves / Levels (and white balance).
The app supports synching between devices only through iCloud Photo Library. I’d like to do something more powerful in the future, but nothing to report at this point.
It’s something I plan to look at more at some point. The app generally supports wide gamut, but when saving files, it uses standard color profiles and formats (like JPEG) that don’t generally look different on XDR.
That’s definitely strange, though some of it is explainable. Affinity doesn’t use Apple’s RAW, while Preview, Pixelmator, and RAW Power all do. So the corruption part is at least consistent. I cannot begin to guess why opening the photo in Affinity fixes the corruption problem.
If you want a literal crop to inches, then there are two ways:
Enter a large pixel value (6000 x 6000) for example which would be 20×20 at 300 dpi
Or, use a square crop and then export at a custom size, which is actually the same thing.The crop numbers are unit-less. They are a ratio, in the way that a camera may shoot 3×2 or 4×3 – those are also not in mm or pixels.
6″x9″ is not well defined either, because it depends on the ppi and images are simply in pixels.
If you want a 6×9, which is also 2×3, then set the crop to 2×3 and when you export, specify the size you want in pixels.
It’s by design, because Move to Trash is undoable. The app could conceivably move the sidecar and the preview to the trash and then undo them, but it doesn’t right now.
That’s pretty crazy that they do that. I was only talking about properly-engineered extensions that follow Apple’s rules, so YMMV with other ones!
I was planning to make a video, but I just haven’t found the time. The UI for RAW Power’s split toning is fairly similar to Lightroom’s, so videos on those are probably useful.
You can work with highlights, or shadows, or midtones. You can tint them independently.
You also have the ability to work with the luminance (brightness) of highlights, or shadows, or midtones independently.
Finally, the Balance slider controls the definition of “highlights” vs. “shadows” that is, how dark must something be to be shadow (and thus the inverse is a highlight pixel).
Great Answer, Ben!
Any image you edit with RAW Power in the Photo Library is available in Photos for use with its editing tools (or other extensions). This is true whether you use the extension or the standalone app. You will be editing a JPEG, however. That JPEG is generated by RAW Power and is required by Apple so that other tools can work with a standard format.
