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The app has a preset for this in the Presets > Tone. It’s called Negative <-> Positive.
The app also has two features for retouching. One is Spot/Wire which is very basic and there is an AI Eraser now as well. Both are in the Quick Fixes section of Edit (where auto enhance is)A Grain adjustment is on the list to do. I had a version but I wasn’t happy with it, so it needs more work. That said, it won’t be a true film simulator – I don’t have the resources for that.
I haven’t looked into it yet. I first have to implement iCloud Drive support. While iCloud Photo Library is supported, but Photos handles the iCloud stuff itself. For regular iCloud Drive, I have to implement Apple’s APIs. For OneDrive, I have to implement Microsoft’s APIs. For Dropbox, I have to implement Dropbox’s APIs, etc. So unfortunately, I don’t have an answer to either of your questions.
People have suggested putting Auto Enhance into the slider section, but I am trying to build out the Quick Fixes so that people can accomplish most or all of their editing in that section and only go to sliders for fine-tuning or special purposes. That’s why AE is in Quick Fixes.
Also, if I implemented an “AI” or non-slider-based auto enhance, it would not make sense to put it with the sliders.
You are right that the app does not auto-open the sliders from auto enhance. People are at least as likely to use different sliders or features to continue editing as they are to adjust the sliders moved by AE.
The app doesn’t sort by EXIF date – only by the file’s creation date. It uses creation date that because reading the EXIF date takes a long time which would slow down display and sorting a lot. Typically for original images, creation date and EXIF date are the same thing, but not always.
Apple Lens Correction reads lens metadata stored in the original file. If present, then it will correct distortion and lens shading (only).
When is it present? No simple answer. It requires the lens to send the correction metadata to the camera body and for the body to write it to the file. When the lens and body can communicate the data is stored. However, a lens might not have the data, but the body can write it, or the lens has the data, but the body doesn’t know how to write it. Sometimes a lens will provide it for some focal lengths, but not others (for example, a 24-150 might provide it at wide angle, but not telephoto because there isn’t meaningful distortion or shading)
There is nothing per se that DSLRs cannot be corrected, but for the most part, they aren’t.
Yes, Disable Lens Profile turns off Apple Lens Correction.
“Switch to Automatic Lens Correction When Possible” is a setting that is for people with older versions of Nitro. Those versions could not correct as many lens / camera / format combinations, so people may have manually corrected them. This setting replaces manual correction with the metadata-based correction.
“Improved Lens Correction” should bring up a dialog with help. It does on my machine. I do not know why it is not working for you. Sorry.
Well, it depends on what you are trying to achieve. You can export the originals + the ratings and edits to Photos, which allows you to continue editing and maintain full resolution. Or you can have Nitro generate a new file as you describe. But that will “burn in” the edits.
If your goal is to make a rendered image for Photos, then HEIF-10 is fine. If your original is RAW (as you state), then I would recommend a wide gamut color space, like Display P3 because 10-bit HEIF is fine for that (8-bit is not).
Because Show Original is a “state” – which means that you enter Show Original and then have to exit Show Original. You have to release the M key or release the button. So, it’s possible for the app to “miss” the exit and then be confused. So, my guess is that at some point, the app got confused and was not properly handling the Show Original state. Quit / reopen will fix that because it clears out the incorrect state in the app. Sorry.
The radial mask can already be turned into an elliptical and rotated. You can resize the radial by grabbing on the circle controls and rotate it by grabbing between the circles (on the line that defines the mask.
Can you reproduce this problem, or did it only happen once? Also, what happens if you press “M” or press and hold on the image (these are also ways to do Show Original)?
A masking video is long overdue. However, I’m not happy with how the masking UI turned out, and I plan to completely redo it. So, I have been waiting to make a video until I do that work.
@Gary: Any mask can be limited by Luminance using the masking options as described above.
To show clipping indicators, click the circles that appear above the histogram. They will be dimmed out if the data is in range.Duplicating images will be in the next update to Nitro (both for the file system and the Photo Library).
